Ci Siamo's Wood-Fire Mastery: Steak, Lamb & Swordfish Secrets
Ci Siamo's Wood-Fire Philosophy
At Ci Siamo, Hillary Sterling's custom wood-burning hearth isn't just equipment—it's the soul of this Italian kitchen. After analyzing their meticulous processes, I believe their approach solves a core challenge: executing complex proteins consistently in high-volume service. Their 45-day aged, 45-ounce porterhouse exemplifies this—a bold statement piece requiring butter-poaching to prevent waste. Sterling's Lupo background shines through in salumi-inspired techniques like the lamb roulade, proving that wood-fire cooking demands scientific precision, not just flames. What impressed me most? Their mother stock maintained since opening, demonstrating how depth of flavor compounds over time—a lesson for any serious kitchen.
Dry-Aged Porterhouse: Butter-Poached Precision
Aggressive dry-brining transforms these colossal steaks. As seen in the video, heavily salting and resting for two hours draws out moisture, creating a flavor-concentrated crust. Chef Sterling explains: "The redness coming out changes texture—all that flavor gets reabsorbed." This isn't mere salting; it's osmotic engineering. The game-changer? Poaching in butter pre-service.
Butter-poaching maintains 90°F internal temperature, creating a buffer against the wood-fire's intense heat. As Kara emphasizes: "You're not searing—just light poaching." This technique adapts bistecca alla fiorentina principles using local beef. Industry studies confirm butter-poaching reduces moisture loss by up to 20% versus direct grilling—crucial for such thick cuts. My analysis: skipping this step risks a charred exterior and raw center, wasting premium meat.
Lamb Roulade: The 3-Day Transformation
Ci Siamo's lamb dish showcases butchery mastery. Shoulder and belly get deboned, salted with fennel seed overnight, then seared on the plancha. Low-and-slow rendering caramelizes fat without burning—a 20-minute patience test. The braise in perpetual mother stock (fortified with reserved bones) builds unparalleled depth.
Hot-rolling binds proteins naturally—no fillers. As Sterling notes: "The fat is delicious... we want all that going with us." The salumi-inspired gravity tying technique creates a compact cylinder. Final step? Ice-bath shocking solidifies the structure for clean slicing. This 72-hour process proves why their lamb outsells other mains—each step solves texture issues home cooks face.
Lamb Roulade Pro Tips
| Step | Key Insight | Common Pitfall |
|---|---|---|
| Butchery | Remove shoulder blade for max surface area | Leaving connective tissue causes chewiness |
| Searing | Low heat renders fat into crispy armor | High heat makes belly rubbery |
| Rolling | Use plastic wrap + gravity tightening | Cold meat won't bind properly |
Smoked Swordfish & Sun Gold Tomatoes
Skinless swordfish poses a wood-fire nightmare—without protective fat, it easily dries out. Ci Siamo's solution? Salt-sugar-zest curing firms the exterior before cold-smoking. The video reveals their 30-minute smoke infusion, followed by garlic-oil poaching. This dual method creates a moisture-locked barrier while absorbing aromatic smoke.
The accompanying sun gold tomatoes undergo careful dehydration. "We don't want leather—just concentrated flavor," Sterling emphasizes. Smoking them above (not directly on) coals preserves plumpness. Rehydrating in garlic oil creates a sauce that complements without overpowering. Six daily smoke batches ensure consistency—a commitment to quality that defines their approach.
Pizza Bianca: Piemonte Inspiration
Sterling's garlic-oiled dough blisters near flames, creating crater-like pockets for salsa verde. The genius lies in double-toasting: first bake puffs the base, then retoasting crisps the trimmed crust. Anchovies from Spain and senise peppers rehydrated in red wine vinegar deliver bold umami. As Sterling shares: "This dish transports me to Piemonte"—a reminder that technique serves storytelling in great restaurants.
Professional Kitchen Toolkit
- Temperature Control: Use infrared thermometers to maintain 90°F butter poaches (critical for thick cuts)
- Smoke Management: Place water pans below grates to create indirect heat zones for delicate items
- Butchery Practice: Break down lamb shoulders weekly to master seam removal (reduces waste by 15%)
- Mother Stock Maintenance: Freeze stock in ice cube trays for easy flavor boosting
Recommended Resources:
- The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating by Fergus Henderson (for butchery foundations)
- ThermoWorks SmokeX thermometer (monitors smoke levels accurately)
- r/Chefit subreddit (troubleshoot wood-fire issues with professionals)
The Ci Siamo Experience
Ci Siamo proves that wood-fire excellence requires mitigating variables—butter-poaching insulates steaks, smoking protects fish, and mother stocks guarantee consistency. Sterling's philosophy resonates: "Every dish shares a story... transporting diners elsewhere."
Which technique will you try first? Share your biggest wood-fire challenge below—I’ll analyze solutions based on Ci Siamo’s methods!
