Epomaker HS84 Review: RGB Keyboard With Critical Flaws

content: Is the Epomaker HS84 Worth Your Money?

Shopping for budget mechanical keyboards? The Epomaker HS84 tempts with vibrant RGB and hot-swap sockets at $76—but critical design flaws make it a dealbreaker for enthusiasts. After testing this 75% layout keyboard, I discovered hidden limitations that Epomaker doesn’t advertise. If you’re considering this board, you deserve to know why its raised SMD LEDs sabotage switch compatibility and how it compares to Epomaker’s superior EP84.

Build Quality and Unboxing Experience

The HS84 arrives in premium packaging with a frosted ABS case weighing 870g. While the included manual is well-written, accessories feel cheap: a basic USB-C cable and flimsy keycap/switch pullers. The 75% layout omits blockers, cramping the right-side keys—a divisive choice that sacrifices ergonomics for compactness.

Knock tests reveal noticeable spring ping and hollow acoustics, confirming its budget construction. Thin ABS keycaps also disappoint, diffusing RGB poorly. For intense lighting effects, I’d recommend replacing them with pudding-style caps immediately.

The HS84’s Fatal Flaw: Switch Incompatibility

Here’s the critical issue: the HS84 uses raised SMD LEDs that sit above the PCB, unlike standard recessed designs. This prevents compatibility with popular switches like JWK or Durock L4 series, which lack bottom housings to accommodate the protrusion.

Visualizing the Problem

Compatible: Gateron Browns/Yellows (feature LED cutouts)
Incompatible: JWK, Durock L4, Tecsee Diamonds (no cutouts)

This design oversight severely limits customization. If you planned to upgrade beyond Gateron switches, the HS84 becomes useless without desoldering—a costly hassle. Epomaker’s own EP84 avoids this flaw entirely, making it a smarter investment for just $10 more.

Performance and Modding Potential

The hot-swap sockets support basic switch swaps (using compatible Gaterons), while pre-lubed stabilizers rattle noticeably during typing tests. A band-aid mod is essential for acceptable performance.

RGB and Software Limitations

Per-key lighting: 16.8 million colors with dynamic effects
Underglow: Striking bottom-facing LEDs (add foam to diffuse hotspots)
No software support: Lighting macros can’t be customized post-purchase

The underglow flickers visibly in recordings, and the lack of software control feels restrictive for a "gamer-focused" board.

Final Verdict: Avoid the HS84

The HS84 fails as a modding platform due to its LED design. For $86, the Epomaker EP84 offers:

Standard recessed LEDs (full switch compatibility)
Pre-installed sound-dampening foam
Superior stabilizers

If you prioritize RGB over customization, the HS84 could work with heavy modifications—but why compromise? The Keychron V1 and CIY X77 outperform it at similar prices without compatibility headaches.

Share your dealbreaker: What’s worse—non-standard layouts or switch incompatibility? Let me know in the comments!

Checklist Before Buying Any Budget Board

✅ Verify LED placement (recessed > raised)
✅ Test stabilizer wobble via sound tests
✅ Confirm software/firmware support exists
✅ Check switch compatibility sheets

Recommended Upgrades

Keycaps: XVX Pudding Caps ($20) for brighter RGB
Switches: Gateron Yellow Pros (only compatible option)
Mods: Band-aid + dielectric grease for stabilizers

Pro tip: Always check switch bottom housings before purchasing hot-swap boards. A missing LED cutout could ruin your build.